【Fashion Show】Adrian Appiolaza為Moschino帶來的首場大秀

Moschino 2024 A/W

· 時尚,流行,fashion,Brand,fashion show

本次的Moschino大秀是Adrian Appiolaza上任後的第一場時裝秀,而Appiolaza加入Moschino也不過是幾周前的事,繼Jeremy Scott離開後,去年11月才宣布由Davide Renne接手Moschino,但沒想到只上任10天Renne便去世了,此消息震驚了時裝界,也因此大家都想知道在這麼短暫的時間內,Appiolaza要如何為我們呈現這一場大秀。

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而Appiolaza在後台訪問時提到“It’s been a very intense journey, my first input when I decided to take this opportunity was to go to Franco’s universe and bring it to today. I went to the archive and picked iconic points of Franco.”中文意思是“這是一個非常密集的旅程。當我決定抓住這個機會時,我的第一個想法就是進入Franco的世界,並將其帶到今天。我去了檔案館,挑選了Franco的標誌性元素。”

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因此有別於許多新任的創意總監上任後希望將自己的風格帶進品牌裡,Appiolaza為了能快速上手,選擇的做法是”從現有詞彙中建立一種新語言”,我們可以看到在秀場上出現了許多Franco Moschino當年的標誌性設計,其中包括1985年首次展示的雲朵印花、源自大都會藝術博物館永久收藏的一件黃色西裝外套的笑臉圖案,以及宣揚愛與和平等口號的服裝,等等…。做為Loewe女裝成衣設計總監,又擁有在Chloé、Miu Miu和Louis Vuitton等任職經驗,Appiolaza巧妙拿捏住了Franco過往既有的詞彙,向大眾展現出了屬於他的Moschino。

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The Moschino show this time was Adrian Appiolaza's first fashion show since taking office, and Appiolaza joined Moschino just a few weeks ago. Following Jeremy Scott's departure, it was announced in November last year that Davide Renne would take over Moschino, but Renne unexpectedly passed away after only 10 days in office, shocking the fashion world. As a result, everyone was curious about how Appiolaza would present this show in such a short time.

During a backstage interview, Appiolaza mentioned, "It's been a very intense journey, my first input when I decided to take this opportunity was to go to Franco's universe and bring it to today. I went to the archive and picked iconic points of Franco."

Therefore, unlike many new creative directors who hope to bring their own style into the brand after taking office, Appiolaza's approach to quickly getting started was to "build a new language from an existing vocabulary." We could see many of Franco Moschino's iconic designs on the runway, including the cloud print first shown in 1985, the smiley face pattern from a yellow blazer in the Costume Institute's permanent collection, and clothing promoting love and peace slogans, etc. As the design director of women's ready-to-wear at Loewe, and with experience working at Chloé, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton, Appiolaza skillfully captured Franco's existing vocabulary and showcased his own Moschino to the public.